Image via Melissa Kimble
In the age of COVID19, where real life feels more like an episode of Black Mirror and "uncertain times" seemingly have no foreseeable end, the fashion industry was predicted to be hit the hardest whilst in quarantine. However, this time social distancing has opened the floodgates for support of creatives and businesses thanks to the power of social media. Additionally, the wrongful deaths of Breonna Taylor, Ahmaud Arbery and George Floyd have sparked necessary national conversation regarding the treatment of the Black community and in turn, sparked a boom in support for Black businesses at all stages. As more eyes turn to the talents of Black creatives, I wanted to highlight ten brands inspiring the masses and making serious waves in the fashion industry this year.
10. Shami Oshun
Shami Oshun is a California based fashion designer. She created her self titled brand in high school and from there began getting traction after going viral for her prom dress made on a $15 budget the night before prom. Oshun's relationship with wearable art catapulted in 2018 when she began her experiments with 3D printing after being inspired from the art and design of Iris van Herpen. From there she released what she calls the "Bev bag" which is a printed purse formed to fit and hold the beverage cup of your choice. These bags also change color once they hit the sun. Since the Bev bag, Shami has dropped multiple variations of the bag, a series of color changing skirts, matching earrings, and masks! Her love of fashion and tech, and hunger to create the next inventive thing to blow our minds with is exactly why Shami Oshun should be on your must watch list.
Winner of the 2019 CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund, Christopher John Rogers has had an extremely promising come-up. Due to his diverse childhood, where he garners inspiration and what comes out of that is also equally as diverse. His relationship with tailoring and the color spectrum is truly incredible, and the glamour and chic personality in his garments is clear to see. Rogers proves he has what it takes for longevity in the industry.
"Its just natural.. just the way that I've existed. I try to allow for nuance and fluctuation in expression for all different types of people. Thats just how I think. That's why its important to champion designers that have a varied experience because you'll get varied results and you won't have to force it upon them."
Rogers continues to express how important the concept of 'tonal dressing' is to his collection as it made a huge impact on his as he grew up in the church. "Everything had to match in one way or another". Having dressed the likes of Chloe & Halle to Hunter Schafer and Shea Coulee to Michelle Obama, the Louisiana native has had an eventful year and is certainly not playing any games!
8. Atira Lyons
Atira Lyons first went viral on Twitter back in 2017 after posting her high school prom pictures which featured a velvet gown and matching set for her little dog. From there she released her first line of luxury durags which became a catalyst for a never ending heated debate about whether or not durags should be considered a luxury. Fast forward to 2020, she is stomping on all the naysayers opinions. After announcing the purchase of her first physical store, she is gearing up to open Atira Lyons -- the first luxury durag store in the world, on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles, California. However it doesn't just stop there, as Lyons labels herself as an "all around designer". Having teased bikinis in the past with more to come, we can't wait to see what Atira Lyons has in store for us!
7. Sean Brown
Canadian-Jamaican creative director, Sean Brown, was busy working on an impending Coachella performance when the Coronavirus hit and the world was put in a halt. The quintessential creative still managed to find a way to make dope product in the middle of a pandemic, first releasing a reusable tote bag with images from iconic scenes with Missy Elliot, TLC, Belly, ect. adorned. He then released his infamous album inspired CD rugs which became a catalyst for the rug trend we're seeing right now. In an interview with Complex, Brown reveals that if it wasn't for quarantine boredom and curiosity, his infamous album inspired CD rugs most likely would not have came into existence. If you follow him on any of his social media platforms, you can see that this jack of all trades has a strong affinity for the aesthetics, style and overall vibe of the early 2000s, gaining most of his inspiration straight from magazines and interviews from that era. He goes on to speak about his love for that time saying,
“It was such an era of Blackness that was so bold and beautiful and it’s lost”. “These brands were birthed out of necessity because high fashion wasn’t championing Black people, so we went out and created all of these beautiful Black brands. Then once they got to a certain level, everyone just cashed out. And that impacted print media and it kind of buried an entire era of culture prematurely. But it’s embedded into who I am. So, I have kind of made it a point now to keep that alive. I just can't let that die.”
In addition to the CD rugs pictured below, Brown features versions inspired by Jay-Z’s Vol. 3... Life and Times of S. Carter, A Tribe Called Quest’s People's Instinctive Travels and the Paths of Rhythm, and The Beatles’ Yellow Submarine all available at Curves by Sean Brown.
Images via Curves by Sean Brown
6. Matte Brand
Briana Shaneè Wilson, founder of Matte Brand launched as an Instagram boutique in 2014 amidst her modeling journey. The Texas native initially released minimal basics and quickly capitalized off Instagram culture to gain hype. Her following collections would explore the ever-changing ways of social media trends, femininity, comfort and her personality; otherwise known as "Insta baddie culture". Wilson's commitment to her audience is the promise to make them feel sexy with every piece they wear, in any stage they're in. Teyana Taylor, Megan Thee Stallion, Draya Michelle , Keke Palmer and the Kardashian/Jenner sisters have all been spotted in Matte Brand pieces throughout the years.
Since the pandemic began, not only has Wilson released her new 1992 collection, after the year she was born, but also launched "Working Girl Academy" -- a 6-week digital program for entrepreneurs to speak with her personally and gain valuable gems on exactly what it takes to wire your mind and succeed as a business owner.
Twinkle, twinkle little star... well actually, big stars only. Custom pieces worn by Nicki Minaj and Rihanna to Mariah Carey and Cardi B and thats even scratching the surface. The d.bleu.dazzled client list really goes on for miles. Destiny Bleu, combines her extensive background in professional dance and cheerleading for the NBA + NFL with her skills in costume design and from there, the brand was born. Bleu and her knowledge for what works in movement and dance without compromising styling and glamor is the reason why she continues to succeed.
With Beyonce as a loyal customer of hers, after having had work done from her for several shows, it was a no brainer that we would see those signature sparkles lighting up our eye's in Beyonce's "Black Is King". Queen Bey and her dancers can be spotted wearing numerous Swarovski encrusted catsuits and accessories throughout the film.
4. Mowlalola
If you're into gender fluid punk aesthetics and visuals that make you feel like you're on an acid trip then you're in for a treat. Mowalola Ogunlesi, founder of her self-titled brand, is heavily influenced by her Nigerian culture as well as the countries psychedelic rock scene in the '70s. Her pursuit of fashion comes as no surprise to many, as she watched her parents and grandmother work in textiles and their traditional menswear line growing up. However, the pursuit of creative careers almost frowned upon in Nigerian culture as Ogunlesi describes it as a "money driven society". Despite that, her drive, passion and support from her family superseded what society deemed acceptable as she went on to working alongside Grace Wales Bonner as well as producing vibrant art shows that would soon catch the eyes of many.
"I make clothes to challenge peoples minds"
This British-Nigerian designer's pieces have been seen on the likes of the Solange, Naomi Campbell, Drake, Skepta . The Kardashian-West family was photographed dressed in full custom pieces from the brand, which opened the doors for astronomical levels of hype. Kanye West had been a longtime fan of Mowlalola and their relationship blossomed as he gave her a huge cosign. West would also appoint her to be Design Director behind the highly anticipated Yeezy collaboration with retail giant, Gap. Keep your eyes peeled for what they cook up in the near future.
3. Pyer Moss
Kerby Jean-Raymond, creative director and founder of Pyer Moss (pronounced Pierre Moss) is one of the most influential brands of the decade. After starting the brand almost accidentally in 2012 when his leather camo jacket ended up in the hands of Rihanna, Kerby wasted no time abandoning his corporate job and putting a name to his creations. Jean-Raymond's dedication to the exploration and celebration of the Black identity is made clear in Pyer Moss' brand identity. The iconic Collection 3 "Sister" show, hosted at the Kings Theatre in Flatbush, Brooklyn was created to pay homage to Sister Rosetta Tharpe and honor what she contributed to Rock 'N Roll. The show features an all black choir with an all black model cast and all black musical talents, during Black History Month. Whew! The show also featured collaborations with Sean John and FUBU, which 90's babies were overjoyed to see. Immediately afterwards their newest sneaker collaboration with Reebok was released as well.
Pyer Moss's Spring 2020 Collection 3 pieces have been spotted on the likes of Zendaya, Aurora James and Angela Davis this year so far! To check out the full collection, watch the runway show below.
2. TELFAR
If you haven't heard the name TELFAR yet then you've honestly done an amazing job at social distancing from the world of fashion and social media. Telfar Clemens, began his design journey making creations from deconstructed and reconstructed vintage clothing back in 2004. The Liberian winner of the 2017 CDFA/Vogue Fashion Award is known for his simplistic neutral unisex clothing, jewelry and of course, bags.
Clemens' dedication to the TELFAR brand mission, "Not for you -- for everyone" evidently has worked as a double entendre, especially during these past couple months. Clemens, a Black gay man, intends on his brand to carry the same values he wishes the world to adopt. Additionally, with the drama between the resell community, who decided to dip their toes in business they didn't belong in, against TELFAR's audience, the brand introduced a Bag Security System, further reinforcing the brands mission.
Many argue that the TELFAR shopping bag is the new Hermès Birkin, not comparable in price point but in exclusivity. Telfar argues that luxury and exclusivity should not be determined by a six figure price tag only. The most important and iconic fashion piece of the year is actually under $300, imagine that! Additionally, these shopping bags are very minimal in appearance and overall construction as Clemens uses vegan leather and a simple branded imprint of the "T" logo to create the purse. Whether you agree or not, there is no denying that the "Bushwick Birkin" it the "It bag" of the decade.
Stay tuned for a full synopsis of the brand and how Telfar singlehandedly ended resell culture.
1. HANIFA
Anifa Mvuemba, founder of design label HANIFA is a self-taught designer born and raised in the DMV area. Mvuemba started designing her label in 2011 after dropping out of college to pursue design full-time. After a last-minute party outfit received tons of love on social media, she decided to go full speed ahead with her brand launch. HANIFA is a contemporary womenswear brand known for its vibrant color range, fun silhouettes, unique textures and size inclusivity. Mvuemba's mission is to provide luxurious ready to wear pieces for all women, "at every turn of her lifestyle".
On May 22nd, 2020, HANIFA's "Pink Label Congo" collection was unleashed via Instagram live and like a wildfire took the internet by storm. The inspiration behind the collection is directly influenced by the Congo, as a means of raising awareness about the struggles of citizens,and illegal mining of the country. Mvuemba writes,
Riddled with a painful history, the beauty of Congo is often untapped and overlooked. The gentleness, beauty, history, poise, majesty, strength, power, and hope of the Congolese spirit inspired this collection. When creating each piece, I was reminded of the stories my mother told me of the women she knew back home in Congo. Women who suffered great loss but still, mustered every ounce of strength everyday to show up. My hope is that this collection inspires all women to stand tall in their power and like the Democratic Republic of Congo, to use their history, whether pretty or painful — to redesign their future. My country, the land of Congo, is ripe with an abundance of natural resources — the greatest of which are its people — its women.
During a time where people were predicting the end of fashion shows, Mvuemba came to shake up the table. The funny thing is, she was set to debut the runway pieces, pandemic or not, as planning for the groundbreaking show was already in the works well before any word of the conornavirus came to be. In an interview with Teen Vogue, she reveals that she was already seven months into the designing and rendering process before word of the coronavirus came to be.
Her pieces have been worn by beauties like Lizzo and Kylie Jenner. Just recently Zendaya and Tracee Ellis Ross have announced that they have been gracing September issue magazine covers while draped in the newest collection. So if you were still wondering how exactly this Black woman from the DMV reset the culture and shook up the fashion industry well, look at the material! HANIFA -- 'For the limitless woman'.
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